A Traipse Through the Tenderloin—San Francisco's Underbelly

Pogolac’s authentic Vietnamese dishes are delectably fresh. Don’t miss the seven course beef-tasting menu, which is a real deal at $16 or the pho for $5.50.

Once you’ve tasted their crack-like Chicken Tikka Masala (it’s highly addictive), you’ll never stray from Chutney’s door. With all dishes under $10 and most under $6, this order-up restaurant is cheap and flavorful. Another dish not to miss: Bengan Bharta—smoky eggplant with tomatoes and onions.

The owner of Darbar greats diners with a warm welcome and a menu of inexpensive yet sumptuously spiced Indian and Pakistani dishes ($4.50+). The tandoori is moist and tender while the chicken wrap for $4.95 is a perfect meal on the go.

Arrive early—before the line forms out the door—and snag a spot by the window to watch the Tenderloin at its calmest. Dottie’s is rightly famous for its home-baked goodies, like mango-honey rolls.

From crawfish beignets and gumbo to meltingly tender biscuits and po-boys, Brenda’s French Soul Food has the market cornered on rich (and very naughty) down-home Creole cooking. This restaurant serves from 8am-3pm so come early or eat late to avoid a wait.

The infamous Phoenix Hotel and Bambuddha Lounge is the choice of visiting celebrities from Joan Jett and Keanu Reeves to Radiohead and Sonic Youth. While the drinks and food are pricey for this derelict neighborhood, the bar, surrounding a lighted swimming pool, transports its patrons from San Francisco to L.A.

Skeptics of Bourbon & Branch, San Francisco’s newest “speakeasy”, are quickly won over by the perfectly mixed cocktails and its dark, library-like interior. Call ahead for the secret password and make a reservation because you won’t be permitted in otherwise.

Live jazz, affordable wines and small nibbles draw an eclectic crowd to Café Royal. Hipster students from the neighboring Academy of Art relax into the red-velvet banquets and peruse the art adorning the chipped walls.

The Exit Theater has long been at the heart to San Francisco avant-garde arts community. This black box theater hosts the SF Fringe Festival each year and in 2006, the Exit premiered Irvine Welsh’s latest play. Their monthly calendar offers eclectic choices from comedy to bawdy, burlesque favorites.

Local pop and Low Brow art are the focus at the Shooting Gallery. Owner Justin Giarla opened the gallery to bring his punk and skateboard roots to San Francisco’s art scene. Regardless of your taste in art, you’ll appreciate the welcoming atmosphere.