History of Men's Underwear

The loincloth is the simplest, most early known form of men’s underwear, and may have been the first undergarment worn by our ancestors. Usually nothing more than a long strip of material passed between the legs and around the waist, the ancient Hawaiian malo and Japanese fundoshi are excellent examples of man’s first attempt at concealing his junk. Based on the example to the right, covering your ass was not of import.

In warmer climates, the loincloth may have been the only item of clothing worn by male members of society, but in ancient Egypt, where pharaohs were buried with adequate supplies for the after-life, it was often concealed beneath a skirt. Whether rich or poor, everyone sported a loincloth of some sort, though the material used varied greatly. Linen and wool were the most popular (and affordable), but many preferred leather or silk.

The ancient Greeks sported the chiton, an oblong of woolen cloth long enough to wrap about the body from the neck to just above the knees. One side would remain open and fastened by a fibulae (pin or brooch). A girdle was draped about it and the chiton could be laced through it. It was worn high by those more physically active and left long by the older gentlemen. The himation, an outer cloak, was worn over this. Slaves were the only members of Greek society to wear actual loincloths. The Romans preferred the subligaculum, which can best be compared to a pair of shorts or loincloth concealed beneath toga or tunic. In the image to the right you’ll notice women wearing the subligaculum along with a modern day bikini top of sorts.

Around 1200 AD pull-on underpants burst onto the scene. The loincloth disappeared from men’s fashion only to be replaced by Braies, which the wearer stepped into and then laced or tied around the waist and legs at about mid-calf. Braies were large and baggy drawers worn beneath a man’s other gaments and by all levels of society. This era also saw the development of corsets, codpieces, stockings, and undershirts.

Codpieces were the next rage in men’s undergarments, popularized by King Henry and other royalty around the 16th century. Their popularity began as an alternative to removing your braie to urinate. Now you could simply remove the codpiece and let loose wherever with the ease seen outside of bars frequented by college students. King Henry also began the trend of wearing oversized codpieces (many believe this was due to him having syphilis and having to make room for a medicinal gauze). Codpieces also made for excellent storage areas for coins and such. I imagine it brought a whole new meaning to, “can I buy you a drink?”

With the Industrial Revolution men began wearing mass-produced underwear for the first time. Underwear was being bought in stores and produced with cotton by the thousands. The union suit, made of knitted material and including a drop flap for easy accessibility to the toilet, was all the rage. It was a one-piece undergarment and is better known under the name Long Johns. This name was derived from John L. Sullivan, a boxer from the late 1880s, who wore them as boxing gear.

The union suit fell out of popularity in the 1930s, replaced by boxers and briefs. Elastic also made its first appearance and button, snap, and tie closures became obsolete. Jockey introduced Y-vent briefs and men’s underwear was never the same. Undergarment designers toyed with a variety of ‘vent’ adaptations. Though vertical and diagonal flaps were the most popular, horizontal flaps were made available by some companies.

Getting your hands on underwear wasn’t so easy during the Second World War. American troops were the top priority and a shortage of rubber and metal lead to the return of button fasteners. This time period was also the first to see the use of colored underwear as opposed to the traditional white, which were viewed as being too conspicuous when hung to dry. Hitler also used the popularity of Jockey in western nations to demonize the culture.

War’s end found Jockey and Hanes atop the industry with many advances still being made, mostly in the fabric. A process called Sanforization came to be used, ending the trend of having to purchase underwear a size larger than needed. Shrinkage was no longer an issue.

The 1950s saw the rise of color and patterns being used in underwear design. For the first time, underwear was being viewed as a fashion statement. Cotton and wool weren’t the only fabrics being used. Rayon, Dacron, and nylon were in huge favor by the industry.

Bikini type underwear was introduced in the 60s and animal prints became a common adornment of men’s underwear. Although traditional white cotton underwear remained the standard, vivid and skimpy Spandex type drawers began to attract consumers. Underwear was smaller in design (more support) and often specialized for specific age groups and purposes.

Modern underwear design and manufacturers have placed emphasis on sex as a selling point. Originally used as a hygienic aide, underwear’s primary purpose is fashion. Many people, thanks to better bathing practices, now avoid underwear altogether, choosing instead to “freeball” or “go commando.”