Governors Island is in Manhattan???
Much to my dismay, I discovered that Governors Island, all 172 acres of it, is officially and technically part of Manhattan, but both islands couldn't be more different. (Well, they could, but I'm going for "effect" here. Bear with me?). The former almost exclusively boasts 18th and 19th century buildings and is only accessible by ferry, and only recently did it become open to the public. (Yay!) If you haven't been to Governors Island, what are you waiting for? Seriously. It's a free 7-minute ferry ride away!
Travel Back In Time
A trip to Governors Island will require you to travel back in time, in the sense that old architecture and falling-apart structures will be the them of the day. Do you have your 18th century outfit all picked out? Colonial weapon of choice? (Kidding)
In all seriousness, Manhattan is scattered with leftovers from a couple of centuries, sure, but they aren’t quite as ubiquitous for obvious reasons. A trip to Governors Island will make you forget you’re in modern city territory.
Notice anything? Same zip code as lower Manhattan. So yeah, I’m not making this up!
Notice anything? Same zip code as lower Manhattan. So yeah, I’m not making this up!
Prep for Getting to the Gov'nor!
You’ve got a date with the Governor, but how ever will you get there? EASY PEASY. A free ferry runs every half hour from the Maritime Building near Battery Park! Since it’s not the big, established ferry terminal in the sense that South Ferry is, it’s low on amenities and you feel herded like cattle just as you do waiting next door for the Staten Island Ferry.
It’s all good, though, because in 7 minutes flat you will be standing on an island that resembles a quaint New England college campus. I. kid. you. not.
Maritime Building Dock
Your wait for the Governors Island Ferry will look a little like this, though not exactly in black and white as I have chosen to portray it! You really have to wonder about all the history wrapped up in this 1909 building.
Maritime Building
11 South Street New York, NY 10004
The Maritime Building was only recently re-opened to the public (which seems to be the theme of this post!); done up in the RAD Beaux-Arts style, it’s still a little rickety inside, so much so that I think that’s why I had to sign a waiver upon entering.
Originally, the ferry docked here shuffled people to 39th Street in Brooklyn…why 39th street? I haven’t a clue. Sadly such water taxiing stopped in the 30’s and the building has passed through many hands, falling into disarray after lack of upkeep.
Inside the Maritime Building…get a load of that ceiling!
David Byrne has popped up in a lot of different venues and fields, and his most latest venture is the Maritime’s art/music installation: “Playing the Building.” What?!?
Time Out sums it up best: the building “plays” using “a retrofitted antique organ whose keyboard is connected electrically and pneumatically to different elements-girders, pipes, conduits-within a space.” Visitors can then play the organ! It’s visually stunning, a very small instrument in the middle of a grand, but decrepit building.
Curious what this puppy looks and sounds like in action? If you can’t go yourself, play the YouTube video!
A Sampling for the rest of the Summer
Not sure when or why to go to Governors Island? Here are a few reasons to plan a trip there. Most events are free, and the ferry and “admission” to the island always are.
- African Film Festival (Aug. 9-10)
- Civil War Weekend (also this weekend…interesting pair of events if you think about it)
- Battery Dance Company (Aug. 16-17)
- Twelfth Night performances (Aug. 29-31)
- Free Bike Fridays (you can always bike on Governors Island, but Fridays there is FREE bike rental; bringing your own bike is always permitted on the ferry)
- Sculpture Exhibition (till October)
- Walking Tours every Wednesday and Thursday if you’re interested in the island’s history
Small town U.S.A.? No, Governors Island!
Want a little more historical foundation before trekking out? Perhaps you’d like to learn about the bachelor building, the fort, the castle, the row of yellow houses, the bowling alley?
Avoiding Starvation on the Island
You don’t want to feel like you’re in an episode of Lost, so plan ahead: there are a few food kiosks if there are events happening on G. Island, but don’t count on it. Buy edibles ahead of time at one of these fine establishments. Picnicking is encouraged on the island; killing small animals and frying them over a hot flame is not.
Disclaimer: with every coffee order you get the tiniest bread-like pastry/loaf I’ve ever seen—no more than 2 inches, and because of this adorable bonus, I have biased, fond memories of Financier Patisserie. They also serve run-of-the-mill sandwich fare with a touch of class and the pastries aren’t bad. Oh, but that little bread!
Disclaimer: with every coffee order you get the tiniest bread-like pastry/loaf I’ve ever seen—no more than 2 inches, and because of this adorable bonus, I have biased, fond memories of Financier Patisserie. They also serve run-of-the-mill sandwich fare with a touch of class and the pastries aren’t bad. Oh, but that little bread!
See it? Next to the big cappuccino?
Ruben's Empanadas
15 Bridge Street New York, NY 10079
It’s mediocre, but it’s cheap food and a stone’s throw from where you need to be before departure. AND it’s easier to eat than pizza, especially on a moving vehicle on the water. Needs hot sauce!
Pre-Governors Island Plan
Get your fill of food, music and art before heading to the bucolic island where YOU will be the entertainment (if there isn’t an event).
In Transit...are those manmade WATERFALLS?
Ugh, yes. Waterfalls to boost the economy…or something. So, you spend $15 million dollars to attract tourists? Um, okay. Anyway, your 7-minute ferry ride to the Island will give you a peak at each of Olafur Eliasson’s four waterfalls, one of which (pictured) is on Governors Island. They are far niftier at night when lit up, but when you are coming into dock on the ferry, you can get up pretty close to see its “backside.”
We're Here! Now What?
Governors Island was a U.S. Army post from 1783-1966 and then up until 1996 was claimed by the Coast Guard. So, not exactly party central or restaurant row over here. It’s a lot of buildings…that you can’t go inside of, BUT cultural festivals, family days, concerts, and bike events now dot the summer calendar.
Greening up the Joint
Green space is a prized amenity in New York, and while it may not be rare (we have tons of parks), finding OPEN green space IS rare. Think about the Great Lawn in Central Park? Crowded! Even parks in the other boroughs tend to fill up on the weekends, turning into more noise factories under the sun.
Governors Island will see crowds, but nothing like Central Park. There are huge swatches of grass that are asking for a picnic blanket and your bottom to plop down! Do it. The old buildings remind me of my Massachusetts college campus and the views of Manhattan, Brooklyn and the Statue of Liberty are stunning.
Yay for green space!
This particular almost-nude lady was part of Figment Festival, which I attended! It has been called the "Burning Man for lazy people, and it will always be memorable for me because we got caught in the WORST thunderstorm I’ve ever seen/heard/experienced.
Definitely had the “we’re going to get stuck on the island” moment as park officials forced us to stay under shelter, brilliantly reminding us that, “Lightning WILL KILL you.” Um, gee, thanks…can we go catch the LAST ferry, please?
I would’ve probably liked dancing way more in the 20’s.
Jazz-Age Lawn Party, anyone?
I wish I could have taken part in the Jazz-Age Lawn Party!!! Waaaaah. I’m pretty certain few of the buildings were constructed in the 1920’s (maybe the recently-demolished motel?), but the clothing style still fits in well with all the red brick and pillared grandeur.
The Sartorialist blog makes me care about fashion way more than I want to. I was already tipping that way, and then I saw the Lawn Party pics; suddenly I was transported back to the party in The Great Gatsby and I had the urge to go buy some period clothing.
Click through to the map at left for some highlights, including open buildings and bathrooms.
Get there early for the time you pick out because they line you up almost a half-hour in advance, and last time I went, they consolidated a few ferry departure times into one. Plan ahead!
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I like to: crochet, eat, read, write, go to museums, watch old movies, cook, bake, observe children, visit the library, travel, cut my own hair, explore New York, mix gin drinks, bike ride, take photographs, keep in touch with people, be crafty, swim in the ocean, make bets, and read blogs and ca...
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