Getting asked out for a Three-way...

by Nina - March 06, 2008

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Have you ever heard of a Three-way or a Cheese Coney? This guide will tell you everything you need to know about eating Cincinnati-style chili.

Hey...are you interested in a Three-Way?

As a recent transplant to Cincinnati, the first time a guy asked me out for a “Three-way” I really thought he was hitting on me (I politely told him I was not interested in kinky sex but thanks for asking). As it turns out, he was really asking me out for a $4 meal called a “Three-way” consisting of spaghetti with Cincinnati-style chili topped with the largest mound of cheddar cheese imaginable (so then I’m thinking cheapskate…can’t even ask me out for a nice meal on the first date). The first five times I tried the concoction, I had indigestion the entire next day and vowed to never eat it again. But it’s a bad habit to kick and yes, I did become addicted to chili from Cincinnati.

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What is this Stuff?

So the story is that several Greek and Macedonian immigrants came to Cincinnati between the 1920s and 1940s and decided to open up chili parlors (you really can’t make decent wine in Cincinnati so they probably thought chili was the next best thing). Everyone’s recipe is a highly regarded secret (think Colonial Sanders) and so no one will really tell you what is in it, but everyone claims to have their own special spice blend including cinnamon and cocoa. It is quite different from Texas-style chili since it is not cooked with beans, is sweet, has a soupy consistency and is served over spaghetti.

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Empress Chili Hartwell

8340 Vine St, Cincinnati, OH 45216

This is the start of it all. In 1922, Tom and John Kiradjieff originally served a chili stew or spaghetti. The original downtown store is closed but there are several locations around town to try it.

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Camp Washington Chili

Cincinnati, OH 45225

Started in 1940 but really gained notoriety from Johnny Johnson in 1951, the restaurant has been in the family ever since. The restaurant even earned the James Beard Award as a regional classic. Its original location was torn down in 2000 to widen the road but it is in a new building next door.

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Gold Star Chili

4113 Edwards Rd, Cincinnati, OH 45209

With more than 100 locations across Ohio, Kentucky and Indiana, Gold Star is the fast-food of chili parlors. It was started by four brothers that bought a hamburger joint in 1965 that came with a chili recipe. The rest is history. If you are ever lucky enough to fly into the Cincinnati airport (which is actually located in Kentucky), you can take a pitstop at Gold Star.

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Skyline Chili

643 Vine St, Cincinnati, OH 45202

Skyline now numbers more than 130 restaurants but this is the original location started by Nicholas Lambrinides and his sons in 1949. Nicholas worked at Empress and decided he could do it better. The restaurant was named after the scenic hilltop view of the city. Today it is more classier than the other joints and tries to serve to the vegetarian population with its Greek salad and rice/bean burrito.

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Dixie Chili Inc

733 Monmouth St, Newport, KY 41071

After working as a cook at Empress, Greek immigrant Nicholas Sarakatsannis had the urge to open his own business in the late 1920s (I really hope Empress is getting royalties). He perfected his recipe and today there are three restaurants in Kentucky. Don’t forget to try the exclusive Six-way, if you dare.

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Blue Ash Chili Restrnt

9565 Kenwood Rd, Cincinnati, OH 45242

Since it opened in 1965 in the Blue Ash suburb of Cincinnati, this diner and chili parlor is popular for its food and beer.

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Definitions

So here is the dictionary to eating Cincinnati-style chili:
Two-way – Spaghetti and chili
Three-way – Spaghetti, chili and grated cheddar cheese
Four-way – Spaghetti, chili, grated cheddar cheese and kidney beans OR raw onions
Five-way – Spaghetti, chili, grated cheddar cheese, kidney beans and raw onions
Six-way – The above with raw garlic
Inverted – Add to a Three-way or higher. The grated cheese is put on the bottom of the plate so that it melts.
Coney – A really little hot dog in a bun topped with mustard, onions and chili
Phony Coney – A Coney minus the little weenie
Cheese Coney – The above with large mound of cheddar cheese
Slaw-dog – Cheese coney served with coleslaw on top (late-nights and alcohol is usually involved with this…sadly, The Chili Company where I used to imbibe on these has closed its doors I’m sure due to a health inspector report)

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Kroger

3760 Paxton Ave, Cincinnati, OH 45209

Can’t go out but still want to make it at home? This chain of grocery stores sells several brands of powder mixes, canned chili and frozen entrees. Don’t forget to pick up lots of cheddar cheese and oyster crackers.

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Cincinnati-Style Chili Recipe

1 lb ground beef (very finely ground)
1 clove garic, minced
1 T chili powder
1 t ground allspice
1 t ground cinnamon
1 t ground cumin
1/2 t red pepper
1/2 t salt
1 1/2 T unsweetened cocoa
1 (15 oz) can tomato sauce
1 T Worcestershire sauce
1 T cider vinegar
1/2 c water (may need to add more to get soupy consistency)
1 (16 oz) package spaghetti pasta
Toppings: Grated Mild Cheddar Cheese, Kidney Beans, Raw Onions, Oyster Crackers

In a frying pan saute ground beef, garlic and chili powder until ground beef is slightly cooked. Add allspice, cinnamon, cumin, cayene pepper, salt, unsweetened cocoa, tomato sauce, Worcestershire sauce, cider vinegar and water. Reduce heat to low and simmer, uncovered, 1 1/2 hours. Remove from heat. Cook spaghetti according to package directions and transfer onto bowls. Ladle chili over spaghetti and serve with toppings of your choice.

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Some tips for a Newbie

So you just sat down to eat your Three-way, but if you are a virgin to eating Cincinnati-style chili, there are several things you need to know:

Ask for a bib. You may feel like a dork, but the first several times you eat it you will get chili on your shirt so wear the bib.
Chili is always served with oyster crackers (do not use other crackers, this is really an insult to the chili). The rumor has it that it enhances the flavor and texture of the chili. My theory is that it absorbs the grease.
When you receive a Three-way or higher the cheese should be mixed together with the chili and spaghetti so that it melts and you don’t eat a mouthful of naked grated cheese (for the more experience, they may order it as an Inverted). There are a few souls that actually order extra cheese (I’m not sure why, since I usually take some off because there is too much).
Go easy especially if it is your first time and make sure to take several antacids to avoid the heartburn.

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Discussions

: by aliciak 08/26/2008 Reply

Wow, your guide name caught my eye, that’s for sure!

: by tnparker 06/30/2008 Reply

Hey, overall a great guide! Although, being a Cincinnati native, I have one “bone to pick” with your directions on how to eat a three-way. Cut, scoop, and eat! A real Cincinnati native does not swirl or mix the chili with the cheese. Other than that though, a great overview!