A guide to restaurants and a few appetite building activities in/near Belfast, Maine. Belfast is far enough from the tourist havens to the north and south that it maintains an identity that is still somewhat Maine, with the additional influence of naturalized hippies, writers and artists who have escaped the Boston/NYC urban sprawl.
I’ve spent quite a bit of time in Belfast, as my folks live in nearby Stockton Springs. If you haven’t been to coastal Maine, you have to plan to get there at some point. The coastline is beautiful, and the history and character of its villages and islands are like nowhere else in the US.
Darby's
Darby’s will never make it into the Michelin Guide, but it is my favorite format of restaurant: independent, casual and friendly with good grub and a solid list of beers on tap. The menu is varied, with everything from fish and chips to pad thai, and good vegetarian options as well.
It is also a great place to take kids – there are a number of kid-friendly options on the menu and its casual enough that you can relax while you child plays walrus with straws in his/her nose.
Young’s is the quintessential Maine experience – big picnic tables right on the wharf, and lobster fresh off the boat. This is where lobster is meant to be eaten, with no tablecloths in site. You can also pick up a feast at Young’s and head to any number of great picnicking spots in the area. They have steamers and other seafood as well.
Chase’s is a bakery, cafe and organic produce market that would win accolades in any major city. The menu is all vegetarian, as I recall, but if you can stand to skip meat for one meal you won’t be disappointed. The food is local, organic, simple and superbly prepared. Also a great place to stop for an espresso and a scone.
You will be tempted by the Weathervane restaurant right in the harbor, because of its fantastic location. I have intentionally left it off this list because it is pretty much the same fare you will get at Long John Silver’s in Columbus, Ohio. Instead, get an ice cream cone, head down to the docks and watch the lobster boats and other craft come and go.
While you are in the area, there are diversions available to accommodate most tastes. The Maritime Museum in Searsport is worth a stop, and the ferry to Isleboro makes for a nice day out. If you’d like to get some exercise to work off yesterday’s lobster feast and prepare for today’s, Penobscot Bay is an ideal place to try your hand at sea kayaking. Sea kayaking doesn’t require any of the technique of river kayaking. The boat is designed to stay upright, and the relatively calm waters of the Penobscot make for safe exploration. Below is a phone number and link for the Outdoor Sportsman in Northport, just south of Belfast. The Outdoor Sportsman rents kayaks and related gear, and will even help you get the kayak loaded on your car. They helped me get two doubles mounted on to my dad’s Toyota Tercel, so don’t worry if you have a small vehicle.
Another nice excursion is Camden Hills State Park, about half-an-hour to the south. You can hike up to the top of Mount Megunticook for fantastic views of the coast. This is where I go to trail run when I am in the area.